West Cost Trail or BUST!

It's been three years since I updated this bucket blog, and I'd say it's time to get back to it! I've just finished Nursing School and in the last three years haven't had a chance to work towards much else in the way of life goals. But now I'm all in again, and the next thing to cross off the list will be the West Coast Trail. 

By some kind of miracle I managed to reserve a spot for four of us to hit the trail July 2 and I am STOKED.

Last year a friend and I hiked the Juan de Fuca trail, which is similar, only shorter and further south of the WCT on Vancouver Island. 

But that one doesn't require pre-booking, and it's also not considered one of the top 10 hikes in the world. More importantly, it's not on my bucket list. 

It was a great warm-up, though, and gave me a good idea of how to best prepare for a multi-day hike. I think the most important thing is to have good footwear, which last year I did not. In fact, the sole of one of the boots I borrowed fell off on the second day, which left me without any grip whatsoever. Once I'd entirely lost the boot, I was hiking in running shoes. Not ideal, or recommended, on a multi-day hike that includes all kinds of terrain and conditions. So, today I went to MEC and bought a rad new pair of boots:

There is much more to prepare, but the most important steps are done, which is to reserve a spot and get good footwear. I am beyond excited about this adventure!!

Lynn Peak

Yesterday was the hottest day of the year so far – about 30C in the sun – but that didn't stop Adriana and my other friend Carolyn from ascending to Lynn Peak on the North Shore. What a spectacular view! 

This is a pretty steep (720 m elevation gain) trail most of the way, and the round-trip (9.8 km) takes a solid four hours (including a short break for lunch at the top). Make sure to take enough water, especially on a hot day, because you'll be sweating enough to need to re-hydrate. We were almost entirely under the cover of the forest canopy, but it was still pretty muggy in the trees.

Another bit of advice – go early. This trail seems to be comparable to the Grouse Grind in terms of its draw for fitness buffs, and as such it gets very crowded by midday. We saw a lot of people coming up the start of the trail as we were coming down, but were fortunate to practically have the trail to ourselves for much of the way up. 

Also, dogs are allowed on the trail, but for most of it are supposed to be on leash, and there was a ranger who passed us who reminded us of this fact. 

All-in-all an excellent hike for both enjoyment of nature as well as an opportunity to stretch the legs and get a good workout. Highly recommended. 

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It's two days post-hike and I'm feeling it (weirdly) in my ankles and calves – I forgot to mention, this is one of the most challenging trails in terms of footing because of all the loose rock along a lot of the path. Last piece of advice: wear good shoes or hiking boots!

St. Mark's Summit

Longest hike of the season so far – this time with a group of friends to St. Mark's Summit, at Cypress Mountain on the North Shore. This trail is a 4-hour (11 km) there-and-back that starts at the Cypress Bowl ski lodge parking lot. It's is fairly technical climb in parts, with a lot of exposed roots, steep sections (elevation gain is 460 metres), and some slippery snow in parts near the top that require patience and a humble attitude because you WILL fall on your face and/or butt at least once. But the view from the top makes it all worth it. (Or so I've heard... but even without a view, the mist is pretty magical.)

Also, the wildlife you get to interact with at the peak is pretty fantastic. We hand fed whisky jacks and tiny chipmunks, both of which were happy to land/crawl onto our hands and enjoy some free cashews and seeds. 

My recommendation is to go early in the day because it's a popular trail that seems to get busy by the afternoon. We passed a lot of people going up as we were heading down the mountain around 1 p.m.

Lost Lake and Brothers Creek

Despite the drop in temperature and the clouds, Adriana and I had another successful venture on the North Shore on Sunday, this time up the Brothers Creek trail again, with an extended bit (1 km) up to Lost Lake. 

The woods in this area are spectacularly lush and surprisingly under-populated. We passed maybe only four or five other hiking parties during the entire there-and-back hike (12 km total), and saw no one at the lake where we stopped for lunch. Again, a great place to work up a sweat and enjoy the beautiful terrain replete with new spring growth and raging waterfalls along the side of the path. 

Lynn Loop

Yesterday Adriana and I set off early to Lynn Headwaters Regional Park, to hike the gorgeous Lynn Loop (we went as far as the Third Debris Chute, which is a 12 km circular route, but it's possible to turn off early and do half that, or, if you have all day, to keep going all the way over to the peak of Grouse Mountain!). 

The trail follows a gentle incline through the forest before turning back and following the shore of the stunningly beautiful Lynn Creek. Both Adriana and I kept exclaiming, "Look at the light on those ferns!" and "Wow, this is so pretty," and basically couldn't quite get over how lovely it was to be in the woods on a sunny Sunday morning, with the birds singing, and the leaves an almost supernatural green. 

There really is no better place to be in the world than the North Shore mountains on days like these, especially when you can stretch your legs and work up a bit of a sweat on the inclines. Feeling pretty good about our hiking progress – and looking forward to exploring more trails and peaks as the weather continues to work in our favour!

Next step is to start doing short, steep hikes, like the BCMC, and then longer treks, like the Diez Vistas, to test our endurance. 

Admiralty Point

Yesterday afternoon I took a break from adding and multiplying fractions to go for a solo hike, and checked out the Admiralty Point trail. This trail starts from the same parking lot at the Belcarra Park picnic site that begins the Jug Island hike, but goes in the opposite direction. Like the Jug Island trail, this one is an out-and-back of about 6km round-trip, but this one takes you along the seashore the whole way, and it's breathtakingly beautiful on a sunny spring day. It's an easy 1.5 hour walk in the park, but a great little hike to get the legs moving and be away from the city and feel like you're out in the wilderness for a while. Highly recommended.

Brothers Creek hike

This morning we ventured into unknown territory, attempting a hike neither Adriana nor I had ever done before. This was the Brothers Creek loop on the North Shore. 

This is about a 7 km route that starts on a trailhead at the top of a residential area in West Vancouver, and takes you up the mountainside on an old logging road (with evidence of machinery and a mill site from over a century ago along the way) and past a gorgeous waterfall and alongside a lovely creek. It's a bit of an uphill on the ascent, and the trail on the eastern side of the creek is a pretty rocky old logging road, so best to wear sturdy trail shoes or hiking boots... but other than that, it's a pretty easy and definitely enjoyable hike. 

The weather today was perfect – sunny and just a bit on the warmer side – so the woods were fresh and the ground was almost totally dry. Still no mosquitoes out, so really, we couldn't have asked for better conditions. This is a really pretty trail, too, especially on the western side of the creek where there are loads of roots scrambles and little log bridges across rivulets. Lots of ferns and moss in between all the massive evergreens, too. Thumbs up for the Brothers Creek trail. 

The Chief, Squamish, BC

Yesterday Adriana and I hiked the trail up the Stawamus Chief, in Squamish. It's one of the best hikes I know of in the Vancouver area (1 hour drive from the city), mostly due to the fun technical stuff near the top, and of course the view of Howe Sound and the surrounding mountains. It wasn't a sunny day, but the temperature was just about perfect for a hike and a short break to take in the spectacular view. Definitely worth doing at least once per hiking season.

view from the second peak

The Chief is a world-renowned rock climbing destination, and the hike up the backside of the wall is pretty majestic itself, heading up through a canyon with a gorgeous waterfall on one side. 

The trail is a well-marked, and very popular out-and-back 10-13 km with a 600m elevation gain, and a choice of three peaks to visit. The second peak is the most popular because of the view, and that's the one we went to. Try to get on the trail either early in the day, or during the week, to avoid crowds. Even being there on a Thursday afternoon it was pretty populated until we reached the top where the rock spreads out and allows for ample picnicking space.

Round-trip, the hike can take between two and four hours, depending on how long you want to spend at the top taking photos, eating lunch, and hand-feeding the very brave chipmunks. 

To get to the trailhead, take the Sea-To-Sky highway out of Vancouver and pull off the highway just before the town of Squamish (if you drive under the pedestrian overpass you've gone too far) up a steep drive to the gravel lot, where there are pit toilets and potable water pump. The trailhead is past the camp site at the far right if you're facing the mountain. Dogs are allowed on the trail, but be warned; the difficult ladder and scrambling required to get to the second peak (if not the first and third) make this one impossible for those with four legs. 

Today I'm feeling sore in my calves and quads, in the very best way. Definitely inching towards being in good shape for the WCT in September!

Possible stumble on the path to the WCT

Just one week after reserving a spot to hike the crazy popular West Coast Trail in September, we've hit a snag. On Friday Adriana was offered a really good full-time job that starts in about a month, so she's no longer sure she can commit to taking a week off in September. However, we've decided to hold onto our reservation for now, banking on the remote possibility that she'll get the time off if she can switch some shifts around. Fingers crossed, anyway. 

In the meantime, we're going to continue with our weekly hikes to get in shape. Today we drove up to North Van and hit the Lynn Valley Trail to take in the spectacular canyon waterfall and then the tranquil view around Rice Lake. Round-trip took 1.5 hours, and altogether was probably about 5 or 6 km.

Rice Lake

Lynn Canyon trail

Popular, but dangerous swimming hole at Lynn Canyon

West Coast Trail reserved!

Tonight I sat in front of my laptop, after punching in the dates for our reservation on the West Coast Trail, along with the digits of my credit card, and I hesitated. What if we can't do the hike because of a work or school conflict? What if I can't afford to pay for all the equipment I'm going to need? What if my IT band flares up just before we're set to go or, worse, ON the hike? What if...? 

What a waste of time hesitating is! What a waste of life our doubting moments all add up to! As one fine wordsmith put it:

"Our doubts are traitors,
and make us lose the good
we oft might win by
fearing to attempt." – Will Shakespeare

Adriana and I are scheduled to embark on the WCT Sept. 18 – exactly five months from today. That gives us five months to get in shape, beg, borrow, or steal all the equipment we're going to need, and research all the tips and tricks online from those who've gone before us. And, of course, five months to look forward to a week in heaven. What if... it's one of the best weeks of my life? Carpe Diem, baby!

Walking (In Nature) Does a Body Good

Feeling great after a short hike this morning with Adriana (on the Jug Island trail again). I'm definitely more clear-headed, energetic, and full of oxygen and optimism. Walking in nature has been proven to help lower the brain's ability to "morbidly ruminate," a type of frontal cortex activity which has been linked to depression, while walking along a highway offers no such restriction on this type of unfortunate brain (mal?)functioning. Heck, being in nature is the best, but walking anywhere has also been proven to reduce the chance of developing breast cancer. Pretty cool. 

On Sunday we hiked around Buntzen Lake, also in Belcarra:

Buntzen Lake, north end

It's a fairly flat (with some rolling elevation gain on the west side), 8 km/2 hour trail that winds through woods and along a gravel road, all around the edge of the lake, and offers really gorgeous water and forest views with a nice beach and fun suspension bridge at the far end. Flush toilets are available at the start, near the parking lot, where there are also picnic tables and a fenced-in dog off-leash area on the beach, and there are clean pit toilets at the far end. 

It was cloudy when we hiked, but a perfect temp to avoid over-heating, and we didn't have to worry about sunscreen or sunglasses. I love this trail, and have done it many times, with plans to keep coming back for more in between our longer and more daring trail quests this season. 

Hiking (and walking generally) has many benefits, not the least of which is the pure enjoyment of being outdoors, in nature. Having a goal, like getting in shape for the West Coast Trail, helps to get me out there on a weekly basis, but it's more than about just having an end goal. There's an intrinsic motivation to exercise when it's fun and enjoyable, and that's ultimately what will work to keep anyone moving rather than giving up on a newly established exercise routine. But don't take my word for it. Check out this great article on how to hack your brain to get your body moving and get in great shape.

West Coast Trail or bust!

Ever since I first heard about the West Coast Trail (in Pacific Rim National Park on Vancouver Island), I've wanted to embark on this multi-day trek through some of the world's most beautiful coastal rainforest. 

Doesn't get better than this. Photo: Wikipedia

It's only a day's travel from Vancouver to get to the trail head, but being ranked the best hike on the planet, it's not easy to reserve a spot ahead of time... and reservations are mandatory. Registration is by phone or online and starts in January for the May through September season. Registration opens and closes on the same day because it's so popular, and they've scrapped the wait list option. It's kind of like trying to get tickets to an Adele concert. I forgot to make the call in January, and now it's April so we may be SOL, but... nothing is impossible, right? For those willing to try their luck, one can camp out at either end of the trail in the hopes that someone will cancel their coveted reservation. Call ahead to either the Gordon River (1-250-647-5434) or Pachena Bay (1-250-728-3234) trailhead offices to see about getting a reservation before you head over to the Island. 

How to get trail-ready for a multi-day hike

My friend Adriana and I are bound and determined to make it happen this year. We're hoping to go in late August, which of course is peak season, but we've both got school and work the rest of the time, so it's either go in August or wait till next year. And I'm tired of putting off adventures every year. Carpe Diem! Besides calling every other day to see if there are any cancelled reservations, we're going to prepare ourselves by doing weekly hikes around Metro Vancouver. Being in good shape, both cardio and strength-wise, is essential for a 75 km hike through some challenging terrain. I got a jump start last weekend by doing a small solo hike in Belcarra Park in Port Moody. 

Jug Island on Indian Arm

The Jug Island trail is a gorgeous, varied terrain, out-and-back 5.5 km through the forest and down to a little secluded beach on Indian Arm. Takes about 80 minutes, not including time to explore the beach and have a snack. Definitely doesn't require any extra equipment or fancy hiking boots. A good pair of running shoes will do. For the WCT, however, a good pair of worn-in hiking boots is important.

Equipment and other considerations

There's tons of information online about how to prepare for the West Coast Trail, from making reservations, paying fees, and what (and what not) to bring. People with weak cardio or with back, knee, or ankle injuries are advised to avoid this trek because getting rescued is not really an option. This is a real backwoods experience. You have to bring all your own food, water purifying tablets, first aid and emergency supplies, and be prepared to wait 24 hours IF emergency evacuation is even possible. In my case, I've got to consider my IT band syndrome. My left knee has acted up whenever I've tried to get back into running (and even long-distance hiking) after I bungled it doing the 2011 Victoria Marathon. It's a chronic injury that flares up with excessive wear-and-tear, but I'm hoping with a knee brace, a lot of yoga, and a solid foundation of shorter day hikes around Metro Vancouver this spring, I'll be able to hack it on the WCT. I may have to see a physiotherapist but I'll do whatever it takes because let's face it, I'm not getting any younger... 

The bare essentials:

1. Good pair of well-worn hiking boots (to avoid blisters, don't get a new pair of boots a week before you set out on the trail)
2. Good backpack that carries a MAXIMUM of 1/4 of your bodyweight (1/3 for men)... on your hips, not your shoulders.
3. Lightweight tent, tarp, sleeping bag and foam pad, and waterproof outerwear, including gators to go over your boots. 
4. Stove, fuel, lightweight, high-energy food, & water purifying tablets.
5. A rope to tie your tarp, hang your food away from bears, etc.
6. A flashlight, watch, map of the trail, matches, pocket knife & first aid kit, including insect repellent and band-aids. 
7. Duct tape. Because this solves almost all problems everywhere.

I'll post more details as we get closer to the trip, but for now, if you're planning to also do the WCT this year, here is a comprehensive list of all other considerations for planning and packing for the trail. Happy hiking!